CONTENTS |
1. Layout the right-of-way using the sub-roadbed. 2. Cut and insert the anchor pipes. 3. Set the grade of the sub-roadbed. 4. Level the sub-roadbed from side to side. 5. Trim excess pipe from above the sub-roadbed. 6. Lay the track. 7. Check electrical conductivity as you go. 8. Install extra wiring or sprinkler lines (optional). 9. Backfill under the sub-roadbed. 10. Add ballast to create a prototypical look. A few extra points . . . |
1. Lay out the right-of-way using the sub-roadbed. |
First and foremost, you want to determine where your track should run. To do this, simply lay the sub-roadbed down on the ground following the right-of-way you want to have. Push the end dowels into the adjacent sub-roadbed segment leaving about 1/32" (the thickness of a business card) for expansion. Don't dig or trench, just lay the sub-roadbed on the grass or whatever surface there is. Also, don't be concerned about leveling or grading at this point. Once you have completed your layout plan, you will then level the sub-roadbed. | 
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2. Cut and insert the anchor pipes. |
Cut some 3/4" schedule 40 PVC pipe to an appropriate length to be used as an anchor. To determine how long the cut piece should be, figure how high above the ground you want the sub-roadbed to be and add about 6 inches. Now drive the PVC into the holes leaving them well above the sub-roadbed at this time. | 
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3. Set the grade of the sub-roadbed. |
Raise each section of sub-roadbed to the desired elevation by sliding it up the anchor pipe. Secure it in place with a 2" decking screw (not provided). There are pre-drilled pilot holes on one side of the sub-roadbed for this purpose. Proceed through each piece of sub-roadbed in turn. Do the same leveling as you go, increasing or decreasing the elevation as needed to create your grades. Note: You may optionally use a single, 3" deck screw. When grading, drive the screw half-way through the PVC pipe; after completing grade, and working back down the grade with a torpedo level to level each section of the roadbed (see #4 below), drive the screw completely through the PVC pipe, and into the opposite side of the roadbed. Now you will be perfectly graded and perfectly level. If you are running at "ground level," then lift it approximately 1". This will leave room for wiring underneath and look prototypically correct when the ballast is added later. Note: If you are living in a cold climate where the ground freezes, do not fully tighten the screws yet. In particular, do not let the screws penetrate through to the inside of the anchor pipes. | 
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After steps 1, 2 & 3 -- Sub-roadbed has been laid out, staked and graded: |
4. Level the sub-roadbed from side to side. |
Along the opposite side of the sub-roadbed you will find another pre-drilled hole. This hole is for leveling from side to side. Proceed around the track plan adjusting the side-to-side level and screwing in the screw to hold in place. Again, if you are in a cold climate, do not fully tighten the screws yet. If you are of a pioneering nature, you may optionally choose to adjust your gradient and side-to-side leveling as you go along. Fully tighten the leveling screws. Check that the lateral and longitudinal leveling is preserved as you do it. | 
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5. Trim excess pipe from above the sub-roadbed. |
Next, trim any excess PVC pipe that is above the sub-roadbed. You can do this with a hack saw, saws-all, or jigsaw — just trim it as close as possible with the sub-roadbed. File to make it flush and smooth with the sub-roadbed surface. A Dremel is a great resource for this type of work. | 
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6. Lay the track. |
You are now ready to start laying track. Simply place it on top of the sub-roadbed. Make sure to leave a slight gap between the rail joints for expansion -- every other piece of track should be sufficient. You can just let it sit free (float) on the sub-roadbed or optionally screw in place. If you decide to screw it into place, use only one or two, 3/4", #2 pan-head, machine screws per section. You do not have to pre-drill the sub-roadbed. Just use the predrilled holes in the ties. Note: Do not turn the screws tightly into the plastic ties. Even a slight crumpling of the plastic ties will cause the track to go out-of-gauge and result in bumpy running or annoying derailments. | 
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7. Check electrical conductivity as you go. |
You should start running a work train now and carry your construction materials in it. This is especially fun if you use a wireless controller such as Aristocraft Train Engineer. The point is to check power conductivity across the joints as you go and not after all track is in place. Attach the power source to the very first piece of rail that you lay, and then approximately every 6 to 10 feet thereafter. Note: You might like to add rail clamps such as those available from SPLIT-JAW Products to improve conductivity at the rail joints. Alternatively you can solder a small loop of wire across all rail joints, with the exception of block isolations, etc. |
8. Install extra wiring or sprinkler lines (optional). |
One nice advantage of the Split Jaw Products sub-roadbed system is that you can run all your wiring and sprinkler systems under the sub-roadbed by attaching them to the PVC pipe with some nylon zip ties. This will protect your wires and pipe while digging and planting, etc. You'll always know where they are if you need to get to them. |
9. Backfill under the sub-roadbed. |
Now backfill under the sub-roadbed. Depending on how high the rail is above the surface, you can simply use ballast (see next step) or dirt. Pack it well but be careful not to bash the sub-roadbed and knock it out of level. Remember, the backfill is not load bearing. It is only there for aesthetic purposes and as a medium for planting. | 
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10. Add ballast to create a prototypical look. |
The final step is to cover up the sub-roadbed with some prototypical-looking ballast. In our opinion, the most realistic choice for ballast is limestone screenings, sometimes called "grinder dust", "grinder fines". or simply fines. It has a gray appearance and looks like g-scale gravel. It will also semi-set after it gets wet which will minimize track movement. In some areas you can get a ton (about 1-1/4 yards) for about $50US delivered — far more than you are likely to need. Alternatively, you can purchase 50 pound bags of it at a place like Home Depot or rock quarries for about $5 each — much more expensive, but much more convenient. | 
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Unfortunately, screenings are not available in all areas. As an alternative, a sharp fine chicken grit or dry-stall can be utilized. Pack the ballast around the ties ensuring it locks into place. The grooves that run along the top-side of the sub-roadbed are there to help keep the ballast in place and lock it between the rails. As a final touch, you may want to "seal" the ballast by adding a mixture of outdoor carpenter's glue diluted with water, about 5 to 1. Add a teaspoon of liquid dishwasher detergent or FotoFlow to ensure that the mixture will be fully aborbed by the ballast as well as bind to the sub-roadbed. Periodic touchup may be required, especially after the first few months of operation. Depending on the severity of your seasons, you could have virtually maintenance-free roadbed for years to come. |
Your railroad is now ready — start running trains!. |
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There are also a few extra points you might want to consider: |
In cold climates, drive re-bar below the frost line. In colder climates that could have frost heave, drive a piece of 1/2" re-bar down into the PVC pipe. Use lengths sufficient to get at least 1 foot below the frost line, (Check with your local nursery or agricultural extension service for the appropriate frost line in your area.) Drive them flush with the top of the sub-roadbed. Note: Be careful not to hit the leveled sub-roadbed with a heavy hammer. |
Post Completion Additions. How about adding to your layout? No problem! Just cut into the rail and sub-roadbed and remove the unneeded sections. Then start adding to the layout following the same directions as above. Adding a siding, or a branch line is easy. |
Special Structures: If you want to add special structures such as a bridge, this too is easy. In fact, with the Split Jaw Products sub-roadbed system you'll be able to make curved trestles better than the pros. Let's say you would like a 10' section of trestle. Mark the area, cut the section but don't remove it. Just back out the leveling screws and lower the section down the PVC the same distance as the height of the trestle bents. Level it. Cut the excess PVC pipe away. Then nail your trestle bents. The 10mm X 10mm horizontal stringers (which we can supply) should be at the same level as the top of the sub-roadbed when complete. For additional detail regarding how to assemble a typical trestle bent assembly, see the page on trestle bent construction. | 
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Removal: In the event you decide to sell your home for whatever reason and the buyers don't want to purchase the railroad, you can take it with you. It can be pulled up and will be able to be used again on the next railroad you build. Try that with concrete or tons of crushed rock. |
